Author: Silver fox adv rider

That was the coldest night of my life. Double sleeping bags and bike jacket over my feet. Draw strings on the head cover pulled in so I looked like Kenny from South Park. It was my own fault for not being prepared and then not wanting to get all my warm stuff out to put on. As a result when the sun did hit my tent I fell asleep and had a great lay in.

Once up,showered, packed and on the move I quickly found a place for morning coffee. Whilst there I spoke to 3 local bikers and they said the route I was taking took me past the highest peak in Norway.(Galdhøpiggen, nope me either)

I cant keep saying it, but the roads and sights are a devine mix. Norway, its empties your wallet and steals your heart!

The run from the ferry to Laerdal was short and I decided to stop early as I wanted to check over the bike.

Sit’ Rep: The bike is holding up, there is wear on the chain and sprockets.

But I’m in Bergen on Tuesday and I have arranged a home stay with garage and tools via Bunk-A-Biker Norway. Its world wide but Norway is so expensive these people like to help out the weary and needy traveller.

Had a message from Jess asking where I am. Then asked if I’ve been through the tunnel yet. I’ve been through lots of tunnels. However my morning journey starts with the world’s longest tunnel.

I woke up to clear skies and headed straight back to Trollstigen to ride it again and see the views

From there I tore myself away and headed towards Geirangerfjord which involved yet another ferry crossing

At the viewing platform was a small waterfall. I stuck my head into the water. It was fresh!!!!

The road down to Geiranger Town was spectacular. Unfortunately the gopro ran out of space on the SD card.

It was a fun hour followed by a decent lunch in the town before hopping back on the bike towards my next P.O.I.

The climb out of Geiranger was great and went up higher than I’ve been so far. It started getting very cold in amongst the snow that doesn’t melt. However 30 minutes later the sun was out again.

Happy in the heat of the sun I was bumbling along thinking I should stop with the waterfall pics. In my head I said ‘Give me a moose sighting and I’ll stop’. As I rounded the next left hander stood just over the crash barrier was a huge moose with her baby. I tried so hard to stop without scaring them but to no avail. I was within 10 metres of them, a truly beautiful sight. I hit the button on the gopro ‘bleep sd card full’. Obviously they both ran back into the woods. I waited and waited but nothing so I carried on really slowly and then the appeared. I just got the camera out in time to get this….

What a day and what a way to celebrate 1 month on the road.

My room last night was grey with grey curtains, on opening those curtains this morning I was met with a monochrome grey sky.

But it was not raining so on with the gear, load up the bike and head to the Atlantic Way Bridges

Weirdly I attracted a little audience who wanted to hear about my trip and I spent a good hour showing pics and talking to various couples, travellers and locals. As I set off it started to rain so I was again stopped to put on the full wet gear.

A short wet ride brought me to Molde and a McDonalds. I was due some food so that was perfect. Fed and watered it was a very short hop to the ferry that took me to Vestnes.

It was then a 60km run to Trollstigen (Trolls ladder). A well known road that ascends the side of a huge mountain, its switchbacks are really tight and the drop off the side perilous.

At the top is a visitor centre with a walkway to see the views but you simply couldn’t see them. I had a walk and tried to take some pics but it didn’t really do it justice.

As I left I was following a motorhome and visibility dropped to 5 metres. I could barely see the kerbs on both sides. The motorhome let me past, I wasn’t sure I wanted to lead. After some 3km the road started to drop out of the cloud and it was a clearer run. 30km later I found a campsite. That’s close enough to go back if the weather is better tomorrow and not an issue if it isn’t as Geiranger Fjord is not far away.

It had been a warm dry night so I packed away a thoroughly dry tent and set off for Trondheim. I drove straight there and noticed a lot more industry and expanding infrastructure. Lots of big industrial areas and road expansions.

It was 10.30 when I parked the bike in the centre of town. I found the Cake n Coffee Kafé, being a big fan of all those elements I sat down, got the map out and planned my next moves.

Trondheim used to be the Capitol of Norway but that was in Viking times and it lost the tittle in 1217.

The old city was what I wanted to see and it didn’t disappoint.

Having seen the old town I walked some of the newer area where expensive retailers had fabulous shops. There was a cruise ship in harbour and the town was filling with the occupants of this 19 story bohemeth.

My next appointment would be the Atlantic Way and the bridges that join the little islands. But I wouldn’t make it today, so I checked ‘OSMand’ mapping for a casual country drive towards Mølde.

Seivika to Kristiansund was a short run and I found a camp site near the town. They had a lodge and it was fairly cheap with breakfast thrown in. So I booked in and promptly charged all my gadgets. There was a self wash for the bike just down the road so I used that, came back, adjusted the chain and oiled it. All before bed time

That was a painfully cold night. I’m lucky that I have two sleeping bags and put one inside the other. Full thermals, bed socks, snood and wooly hat

I’m refusing to fold down the tent until its dry. We’ll that failed and at 9.30am I set off with a wet tent dripping on the back.

I didnt want to take the E6 all the way to Trondheim and Im glad I chose not to. Route 17 to Vennesund ferry was an absolute joy. The sun came out and the place was road riding heaven with scenery to match

I was first in the queue for the ferry but I had no idea how long it would be. I knocked up a chicken roll followed by drinking yoghurt from bits I had in my bag. Then I started calling bike shops in Bergen to try and get new brake pads. The rears are worn down and the fronts are still contaminated with oil. A few places couldn’t help but the ferry was arriving so I left it.

What I didnt get was that it was the ferry crews lunch break, so having sat in full gear in the sun for 20 minutes, I took it all off again and rang another bike shop who were telling me they could get the parts I want as we were called to board. I hurried to finish the call and was the last one on board. However my brakes are on order.

The ferry took us to Holm where I rejoined the 17 and on to Rora.

The choice of campsite was driven mostly by the fact there was a pizza shop less than a me away. The sun dried the tent whilst I ate pizza.

The hotel supplied a great breakfast and it was gone 10am by the time I had packed all my newly dried kit away. It was still grim looking outside so I set off in full waterproofs. I had decided to just hit the main road and try to outrun the weather.

I did have to stop for some waterfalls and a funky wire bridge across the rapids

To an extent out running the rain worked and before long it was time to stop and bid farewell to the artic circle

Trofors is about half way between Bodø and Trondheim. It had been plain sailing in much better weather. I did stop to call my bank as they had frozen all my accounts. I spoke to 5 people, was on hold for over 2 hours in total to find their suspicious activity was everything I explained to them yesterday. Luckily I’m a calm person.

I was aware of a lot of rain and then the biggest thunderstorm I’ve ever known. After which it was getting light. I unzipped the tent to this!!!!

Hmm thats going to take some drying out. I pulled on my waterproof socks and picked up my boots they had pools of water in them. For extra damp proofing I put polythene food bags over the socks and stepped out.

It all looked a bit grim, thank goodness I’d closed the waterproof bags up. I picked them out the water and saw that they weren’t so waterproof as water drained from them. I then picked the tent up whole and moved it ashore. I temporarily pitched it and got the rest of my kit out. Luckily the sleeping bag and air bed weren’t too bad. I began trying to air them a bit.

At this point in walks Rocky an Italian guy who along with Roberta were riding their KTM1290 around Scandinavia. They had a 2 bed lodge, even better they were setting off early and said it was available until 10am if I wanted to dry my kit. “That’s very kind” I said. “We are bikers” he said.

What dawned on me quite quickly is that my ageing little dry bags are no longer capable of keeping things dry. I threw out some socks that wouldn’t dry.  Slowly, during my 3 hour occupation of the challet, things dried and were packed away. A few days ago I picked up some sealable food bags, they now protect my dried out electronics and clothing.

Time was running out so I stuffed the soaking wet tent in its bag, packed up and wrapped head to toe in waterproofs I set off. The Lofoten Islands were coming to an end. I visited Reine and then to the very end of the island which is just a car park

It was time to say goodbye to the painfully gorgeous Lofoten Islands. A ferry from Moskenes to Bodø was a cheap option and we set sail at 2.45pm.

The ferry pic isn’t the best because my battery was running out having been on hold to the bank for over an hour. Eventually everything got sorted so I was pleased.

The ferry crossing was really rough and the ship was battered by high winds and crashing waves that made the whole ship shudder. I’ve never liked ferries, I’ve never been sea sick but if its rough I’d rather be asleep, so I stretched out on a bench seat and got my head down.

Bodø arrived at about 6pm. It was dark with big black clouds and high winds. I had decided to get a hotel and try to dry my gear out. The first two were fully booked so Bookings.com gave me the answer. I was less than 2 minutes away so I was pleased to make it before the rain.

I spread everything out to try and dry it. Boots and trainers balanced directly above the heater. Man my boots stink. Anyway there was a free evening meal in the hotel. I attended in shorts and stinking socks.

Ok, I like that the rain has fitted in to mostly happen at night, but packing and unpacking a wet tent is getting annoying now. Everything feels damp even inside my waterproof socks. I need a drying day and today is not it!

I was grumpy with the weather and the couple who pitched their tent next to mine and sat chatting for hours, then the rain. So I packed up my sodden gear. Loaded the bike and set off.

20km in I needed fuel. I keep my phone and preloaded bank card on the bike but old habits I reached for my wallet, not there. Weird. I go through the filling procedure and then check all my pockets. No definitely not there. I must have put it in the tent last night and forgotten to take it out this morning.

I wasn’t worried as I was pretty sure I would have put it in a bag or something. As I rode on my mind wandered to where I’d used it last. Last night in the pay as you go toilet. Had I put it on the side and forgotten it?

I knew Jess was behind me headed towards Henningsvaer, so I messaged him asking him to check the toilet block. He replied saying yes but it would most likely be the next day.

I had stopped at a very lovely beach. I had done 85km.

The weather was clearing and I took the chance to search my bags and even unloaded the tent to dry it a bit. No wallet.

There was no reason not to go back and look in both the toilet block and campsite. I headed back in increasingly nice weather. It was about an hour back on a great twisty road. Back at the campsite my search was fruitless. I was about to head into Henningsvaer to see it in the sun when Jess turned up. We had a quick chat and went our separate ways again.

So what now? That beach I saw earlier had a campsite and it was nice, ill go there. 86km later I was back and the rain clouds where gathering. I asked about a lodge but they were all booked so I set up my tent, had a shower and went to the restaurant for an evening meal.

I went to sleep with the sound of rain again……..

In all I travelled just 17km today.

I had read about the challenging climb to Djevelsportal or Devils Gate. I thought I’d do more climbing in my bike gear

You start by climbing the devil’s stairs. By the end you are wishing them to stop……

When the stairs stop you just wish they were back……

Then the loose rocks test your ballance before yet more steps, which you aren’t glad to see at all. But after 2½ hours climb you are rewarded with this……..

Its quite a thrill knowing the rock is just wedged there and at some point mother nature will erode it enough to fall.

Then there’s just the walk back down but it had started raining and those slopes got mighty slippy

By the time I was fully down, the now slippy rock, it was heavy rain. I made for the town centre and found a cafe. I sat eating whilst my gear formed pools of water on the floor. The food was good though.

I spoke to a Swiss couple who were on a cycling holiday. They were fed up with rain and were running low on money after both got a stomach bug and had to stay in a hotel for a week. They were headed to the airport to go home. I was headed for Henningsvaer. However another navigational error meant I went straight past and had to backtrack 20km.

I found the turning and within 100m there was a beach with free camping. That would do. I rode to Henningsvaer a great little fishing village but really I was soaked and just wanted to get some food to see me through.

This is relevant so hear me out. Arriving back at the free camping beach I needed the loo. It was a busy place so no running behind a bush. On getting to the loo it was a pay by card access. My prepaid card was still on the bike so I fumbled inside my waterproof trousers to drag my soggy wallet out and get in to use the toilet. That done I needed to set up camp. I found a plot and settled in. I even flew the drone for a while.

I set off about 10am headed towards Lofoten. I was fairly sure I wouldn’t make the islands today.

I made a few navigation errors and one led me to this cool church. I found out that the red paint used on so many Norweigan buildings is an oil based byproduct of the steel industry. Once painted on it protects the wood for up to 18 years.

A quick k ferry hop between Melbu and Stønstad.

Then onto Lodingen to a great little campsite. The place has no staff, you just pay at a parking meter. There were facilities and a toasty hot shower.

I covered about 250km today as I didnt take the direct route