Stavanger was my goal for the day but first the 32km road to Lysebøtn. It winds its way through the rugged scenery to the very edge of the fjord where it drops down the steep side to the end of the water in the heart of the valley.



Atop the fjordal I stopped for a coffee at the cafe known as The Eagles Nest. A quite understandable name as you admire the astonishing views. I started chatting with a Brit who was headed north on his BMW GS. Kevin Scott is a retired geologist and was fascinated by the fjords and their make up of the metamorphic igneous rock shaped by the last ice age (he told me that).

We agreed to ride to the bottom together. It was a blur of hairpin bends and a tunnel with a ‘U’ turn over 180°.






We spoke to some Danish guys who had a few days of riding available and all agreed this was the only place to head.
Kevin had booked a cheap hotel in Forus just outside Stavanger so I booked a room there and we rode together




The Cardinal Pub is on 3 levels. The Cardinal is a London look pub. One floor down is a music pub called Underground and on the top floor is Hexagon the night club. Although not open at the time I’ve seen pictures and they too remain unchanged.
I told the young barmaid it was my local 35yrs ago. She said she wasn’t born then. I raised my eyebrows and turned to the manager who shook his head “Nope, me either”. Wanting the ground to swallow me whole I reached for my last ditch effort. “Is Hexagon open tonight?” She replied “Yes, later but its really for 21yr olds, older people go to the harbour”. I looked at Kevin in despair.