I was ready to move on. I had a great time in the Capitol city but it was more expensive and my hotel, although comfy, left a lot to be desired. As it was by 10am I was on my way travelling through the streets I had walked endlessly. The sun was shinning and the oppressive heat made me wonder if there is another option other than kevlar jeans and boots. The stifling heat giving way slightly as the roads cleared and I could go faster. 80kpm or 50mph is Lillys happy place. I know I could push her to 100kph but, no need I miss enough as it is.
Annoyingly I travelled 150km without taking a single photo, looking back the journey was uneventful, not dull because its never dull. The roads, although paved and straight throw up a few moments that see you dealing with huge ripples in the tarmac or pot holes that require a quick stand up and lift the front wheel over, whilst the back end crashes into the far lip of the crater. No punctures to date. The traffic is, I believe, slightly more hectic than Vietnam. Often three abreast coming towards me as lorry overtakes a car, which itself is overtaking a tuktuk or any combination of vehicle, including farm and plant machinery.
I had prebooked a hotel for a night. Just on the outskirts of the town centre, or is that in the town centre? Anyway near the river and night economy. The Sunny Hotel was sunny for sure. My room was massive, on the third floor with a balcony overlooking a large school. With a choice of two double beds and a lovely bathroom. I was quickly settled and off for a walk to the river.
The Prek Kampong Kandal river was, as with most large rivers, the centre of trade in the past. Kampots biggest export now is pepper, I’m no expert but I think its the peppercorn, I saw plenty of adverts for pepper tourism. Other things to know about Kampot include yet more French government and Kmer Rouge issues, but we’ve done with that.
The Riverside has a promenade and it was lovely walk on a Saturday evening. A market at the far end selling many ‘delicacies’ to the bug hungry locals. A huge paved area saw 30 ot 40 children whisking about in various electric toy cars, bikes and horses. It was fun to navigate on foot, hopping out the way of the little tearaway as they screamed and shouted at the helpless tourist.
There were plenty of resteraunts with much better prices than the Capitol city. After eating, a walk around the bars and into the only one playing live music. The female singer, Kelly, is English, it was her last gig before returning to the UK and she was giving it the full last gig performance. She had an electric acoustic guitar, if that’s even a thing, accompanied by electric guitar, drums, synth’ and a box drummer, she was banging out huge tunes really well.
At 11pm I paid my tab and wobbled back to the Sunny Hotel just in time to watch the Formula 1.
I want to say I was up early, I had found a mountain road and was advised to get there early as the traffic builds up. It was suggested 6am. So 10.30am I left in search of an expectantly busy mountain.
To my great relief there was very little traffic, allowing me and Lilly to wind our way leisurely up the hillside through the lush green of the densley packed trees, a small clearing every now and again, affording us great views across to the coast.
Out of nowhere this huge statue appeared. On stopping to walk up, I was joined by Maria from Spain, she was travelling alone and had just hired a scooter to ride the same route. We left the bikes side by side and strolled up. We had almost completed the same journey through Cambodia at the same time. We both stood there in flimsy clothing discussing the imminent rain fall. I know nothing of the statue other than it was very big and hadn’t appeared on my planning phase.
When I got back to Lilly she stood alone, either Maria had gone or my advice “Yeah its safe anywhere, I leave Lilly all over the place she is always there when I get back”, was wildly wrong.
My next stop were the cascading waterfalls, short diversion and a few dollars entry, where the ticket sales lady handed me an entry ticket, showing the falls in full flow, but forgot to mention that there was not a drop of water to be seen in dry season.
I walked back to the massive cafe, which housed at least 50 tables, with 4 chairs at each, but not one customer. I bet it’s heaving during the rainy season.
Back on the bike and across a large section of dirt road before linking back to the tarmac. Headed this time for the Bokor Palace Hotel and township at the peak of this mountain.
When the Kmer Rouge were overthrown they retreated here and fought a bloody war for months before surrendering to the Vietnamese liberation army.
Its called urban dark tourism, this sort of thing. I call it ruins at the top of a hill that afforded a really nice ride. I bumped into Maria who confirmed her scooter had not been stolen.
And so, as the clouds rolled in, I was headed back, pretty much the way I had come. I whisked through the clouds which lightly dampened my clothing and instantly dried as I got further down. The ride was easy and flowing right up until the monkeys!!!
Having not killed a single monkey, I continued back to the hotel.
It was Sunday night and I headed out for some food at a groovy sky resteraunt that used IBC’s with lights in to create the loft warehouse look.
After a rather bland and expensive pasta meal I headed for the bar I was in last night. In a complete change it was very quiet. I had a drink and chat with the manager, whilst a very drunk American, played himself at pool and somehow lost!
Earth, Wind and Tyres 