I made it to Ban Lung that I had noted was a good size town. When you change country you lose data from your sim card and as such you are left to your own devices to find a hotel.(honestly, first world problems). I found a big hotel and for £21 I was in and set to explore. The wifi let me use maps and I found places to walk to, including the phone shop. I went to the market and had a look. The smell of some of the food stuffs made me feel ill. Sometimes wondering what I was looking at, the answer usually laid next to it in the form of its head.
I found a tiny bar/resteraunt called The Corner Resteraunt. It sat on a cross road junction. The staff and food were great, although I had no idea if it was good value because I handed over 20 US dollars and got a load of Cambodian Reil back. It didn’t matter the food and drink were great and I was soon back in my hotel. Ready for a snooze. It had been a longer journey than expected, with the added 40km loop to get cash.
Next morning I made the decision to stay a day. Cambodia is smaller than Vietnam and so I wouldn’t need to do as many km per day. I had seen a waterfall close by. It was already very hot so I decided lightweight trousers and Sketchers would be fine.
The waterfall was pretty enough
Pretty enough, but the ride there had been heaps of fun.
I mean super funAt my first stop for a drink this lady turned up. That dogs sense of balance was exceptional.
I rode away from the waterfall and just kept going. The map showed a trail so that was fine. What it didn’t show was the fesh fesh, a powdery layer of dust some 10cm thick on top of stones. It was a proper test of my skills to keep the bike upright. All the time cursing, not having my boots and protective jeans
Another cold drink These children had waved and shouted hello. They then rode after me until I stopped.Some parts were less slippyOnce in a while, you just have to stop and look around. (Ferris Beuller 1986)Back at Corner Resteraunt, it was time for late breakfastIt was great.Full explorer mode for the afternoon waterfall and volcanic craterThats the volcanic crater, I was resting in a hammock having been for a totally refreshing swimThen on to the next waterfallVery prettyShonky bridge
I was loving Cambodia. Tomorrow Stung Trend is the destination.
Its 300km to the first big town in Cambodia so not really a single day run. The plan was to head to Kon Tum. Stay there and then it’s a short run to the border
It was time to head for the borderGoodbye Danang
I was pleased to not be rushing as it was very hot, luckily there was a waterfall that was great to just stand under and cool off.
Time to soak my clothing in order to stave off the heat
I had time to take exciting detours and play on the trails.
A river was the next cooling off area
My first stop for refreshment was at a roadside stall. The couple who run it gave me tea, it’s given everywhere, then some local peanut brittle and sweets she had got in Hoa An. They were fascinated by my photographs.
My first stop and these two, recently married, were so lovely.Just playing on the trailsThe clattering of loose planks was unnerving Another stop and this guy who knew a lot about Chelsea FC but nothing else. We did have a laugh
And so to Kon Tum. A fairly big town where I had a lovely eggs and noodle dish, eaten with chop sticks. I located a really nice homestay just out of town.
Goodnight Kon Tum
The next morning it was just 60km to the Cambodian border. I went back to the coffee shop for breakfast and hit the road. Gone were the twisty lanes, just a functional road to get you there. There were a few small towns for those all important cool down drinks and break from the ride.
Uninspiring but functionalLovely strawberry drink
And then the border popped up. Firstly a barrier. I stopped, helmet off documents in hand. He looked and let me through. Next a bigger building, park up helmet off, documents in hand. I’m told to unpack the bike and take everything inside. Once in the rather plush building there is an airport style luggage scanner. I go through the body scanner, all good. On to passport control, I’ve been stamped out of Vietnam. Reload the bike and off to the Cambodian side. Firstly it’s very much, a cheaper build. Wooden shacks. The first is registration. I scan the QR code and with help from immigration officer, who guides me to a table and chairs with a, very welcome, fan overhead. We fill in the registration on my phone and I’m issued a customs ticket. He asks for 100VND. I’m not sure that’s a legal charge but it’s £3 for a lot of help. Moving on to the next window I wait as they fill in my visa and stamp my passport.
Taking up two pages the visa and stamps.
“Welcome to Cambodia sir, that will be $35 for the visa”. I gulp I don’t have any US Dollars or Cambodian Reil, I only have Vietnamese Dong, and not enough of them. There’s no cashpoint, no bank and I’m now concerned they will send me back. After some head scratching I am allowed into Cambodia but my passport remains at the border. I have been granted permission to go 20km to the nearest bank.
Lilly was ready for collection and I had a hotel for the night. However Danang was warm and welcoming, did I really want to leave just yet?
I’d finally seen the Dragon Bridge breath fire
It was Sunday morning and I knew I wasn’t ready to leave. I’d had a couple of long days in the saddle and I thought I deserved a day off.
Lovely beaches
So I stayed another night. I had to swap hotels as mine was fully booked, but what a result the sister hotel 50m away was half the price.
The tallest peak is monkey mountainAnd you can paraglide from itWhy wouldn’t you?
I was headed to ride the Hi Van Pass again when I saw a paraglider. Later I looked them up, sent a message and at 2pm I was in a taxi to Monkey Mountain.
The instruction was clear “Just run off the edge, don’t stop running”. Seems straight forward enough. Once inflated the paraglider was hard to pull against and I’m not sure Thai, the pilot, would have managed on his own. But we did get going and took that leap of faith. Once off the edge you simply sit back and enjoy the flight. Its so quiet and peaceful. You can hear people on the fishing boats talking.
It was all over too quickly but a fantastic experience
This is going to be a two day update. It was Friday, Lilly needed a new clutch and I needed to be out of Vietnam in a matter of 9 days. My plan was to head South towards Danang then across to the Cambodia border. In the meantime getting a clutch at any one of the many Honda Head main dealers. I would use main roads as its about 700km and if I don’t get a clutch within two days I most likely won’t get one on a Sunday.
So, I set off at 7am, there’s nothing much to add, it was a long day and it was only broken up by endless calls at Honda shops. Always friendly and helpful the staff seemed not to have the clutch I needed.
Morning coffee before the start of a long day.
I stopped about 11am for a cold drink. I was initially approached by an older gentleman who shook hands repeatedly. I can now manage, hello (see chow) and English (Ang). He called over his Grandaughter and before long the whole family was there, talking English or translating for those who didn’t. It was lovely as they were so interested and I was equally curious about their family group. I was invited for lunch but sadly I needed to move on.
Stopping for a cold drink I met this family
Later in the day, and fed up of endless knock backs from Honda shops, I stopped at a new Coffee shop. It stuck out as a new build in an otherwise typical Vietnamese town. The owner said I was her first tourist customer, so we had a selfie.
Whilst drinking my coffee I emailed Tigit, the company I got the bike from. They have an office in Danang, maybe they have a clutch.
It was 5.30pm and after a fruitless search for a clutch I took a room here.
Tigit had replied. Firstly, the clutch is the same as that fitted to the Honda Wave, a very common bike. Maybe the dealers had not realised so I could try that. Secondly they have a clutch in Danang. It’s 320km and they need the bike by early afternoon. I’m going to have to get going early.
7am I take a quick photo of Lilly outside the hotel and hit the road.
Its a long ride on boring and quite busy roads. I stopped at two Honda dealers but still nothing. I simply can’t afford more time with rejections, so that’s it, head down, get the miles done. It all sounds easy but now I’m having to be so gentle on the throttle. Any hard acceleration causes the clutch to slip. When going up hill the clutch often can’t hold and the engine speeds up with no drive to the rear. I’m literally nursing it to Danang.
With 30km to go I can see its fairly straight, but there is a large set of hills. The Hi Van Pass infact, but the main road bypasses that. As I turn onto the main road I am flagged down by an officer of sorts. “No motorcycles on here, you must take the pass, it’s very pretty”. He was right it is pretty and now in the sunshine it is even more lovely but will Lilly cope with the hills and tight turns? I back tracked far enough to ease her up to speed and off we went. No time to look around at the scenery, just full concentration on making it to the top. Listening, feeling for feedback, slowly, cautiously we made it up the pass, by now the clutch was toast. I coasted down as much as possible. By the time I got to Tigit the clutch sounded like it had exploded inside the engine. The oil, which was four days old, poured out like grey water.
I had to leave Lilly with the mechanic. However I was given a much newer XR150 to play with.
So that was it, back in Danang. But fate has played into my hands, its Saturday and that means Dragon Bridge is breathing fire
It had been a big push to get here but it was great to be back in Danang and its been sunny.
Setting off from Ban Bac Ha I headed again towards Laos. This time to the Ba Ne Mae crossing where I knew a couple had got through just a few weeks before. It is about 60km and is again quite mountainous.
Morning coffee with a viewTowards the border and hopefully my last views of VietnamThe border…….
As I approached the border my stomach was doing loops with anticipation, but I need not have worried as I was there less than twenty minutes. Yes, another refusal. Apparently the only way to get in is with a letter of invite through a travel agent. How my research failed to pick that up, I have no clue.
The document that sealed my fate.
So that was it, 60km back to the days starting point. However, it’s not all bad, as the Vietnamese make you feel welcome even if you are just passing through. People called out and waved, other riders waved and cheered. Its just a nice place to be, even if your visa is running out
Stopping for a break it was clear the oil leak was no better, but also no worse
I made it back through the mountains but now Lilly was having more problems. Firstly the clutch started slipping and then there was a ‘ping’. At first I wasn’t quite sure what it was but then I saw the speedo was no longer working.
The riding was good and all I knew was, that I needed to head South and make a decision on what next. At about 5.30pm the sun was setting and I found myself in Ngoc Khe, looking at a new hotel that was offering 60% off. That’ll do.
The home stay in Bac Yen cost £5 and was perfect for my needs. I wasn’t too sure about the open hole where a window should be, but luckily, the owner managed to find some cardboard to wedge in it. There was a great cafe next door and I filled up on fried rice and egg. Popcorn for pudding.
Today’s ride was a mile maker on main roads to Moc Chau and was a back track towards Hanoi. Still the scenery was great
I stopped at a roadside shack for breakfast and both husband and wife were charming. They didn’t speak any English and couldn’t use translate. They didn’t want to be photographed.
These two were at a roadside stop where I had breakfast. I found an offroad trail but didn’t fancy my chances on this bridge.
Moc Chau arrived and was quite a big town. It had three things I needed, an ATM, Computer shop and a Coffee shop that did pizza. The computer shop was a bit wishful thinking on my part. I went in and spoke to the manager. I have a visa for Laos on my phone and I needed to print it off. He couldn’t have been more helpful. I emailed it to him and he printed it off in seconds, no questions, no charge, just happy to help. The homestay was pleasant and I was really well rested the following morning, ready for an attempt at getting into Laos.
I say an attempt, as the crossing at Long Sap is known as being a no go for tourists. However the landlord of the homestay said he thought it was possible. So I set off on the road that threaded its way through the mountains. The day was warming up and I was loving the ride.
Within striking distance of the border, the first reminder that I didnt print some documents I may need
I needn’t have worried as I was taken to an office and handed a phone. The guy on the phone was very apologetic, stating the crossing was for Vietnamese and Laos residents alone. It wasn’t a huge shock and the ride back would be equally as much fun.
I even found a few trails to play on.
Back in Moc Chau I found a great cafe that did noodles and poached egg that I ate with chop sticks.
A message arrived, it was from Mau Pham the guy I met at a coffee bar in Son La. He was in Moc Chau but was headed for Mai Chau. We arranged to meet later in the day.
Localised cloud made it very cool
As I dropped down into Mai Chau, the road was wide and sweeping. I was having heaps of fun. There was a long right hander. Leaning into it there was a twitch as the front wheel lost traction, it gripped straight away but the rear had no intention of sticking to the super smooth road. What happened next was the bike throwing the rear out and me wrestling to keep it upright. A full on speedway slide. Luckily the road was clear and I got it back under control quickly. I slowed right down thinking it was a blow out. It wasn’t, however further down the road I caught up with a lorry spewing liquid onto the road. I thought it was oil but later realised it was water, used to cool the brakes. It must have had something oily in it!
Overheat marks from skiddingMeeting up with Mau Pham and his charming children, later we were joined by his wife. Mai Chau is a stunning place in a national park.
Having said goodbye to Mau, his wife and children I headed 25km up a mountain road to Ban Bac Ha and my hotel for the night.
Or how quickly a lot of little errors turn into a big one.
Having rested for a day and a bit I felt well enough to move on. The weather was good and I was up early with a plan.
It was still jumper and coat to start with but the sun was warming, the roads were dry and visibility was fantastic. The first 40km took me to the turning for Bac Yen a further 60km but hopefully worth it. I would need fuel at some stage. I still hadn’t found anywhere open to get phone credit.
Those 40km went by quickly and a decission was made. I’m going back to Dinosaur Backbone. The views were so much better this time and I was beginning to warm up.
Much better
Just before Bac Yen a petrol station, but no need I know there is one next to the place I stayed near the start of the trail. I rode up past where I got the great cloud photos and onto the little village at the top, pulling into the petrol station, it was closed. Well ok I’m not on reserve yet so I’ll carry on.
This is the part of the trail most people see
You can ride down this bit. I did and had a lovely time chatting with people and having my photo taken with them. The coat and hoody now stashed away.
It was really busy and a load of bikes were riding up and down it. One crashed into the back of me but no damage
I set up the 360 camera and rode back up. It was a bit of a test for the little bike and required clutch slipping at some points as it was quite steep. At the road I stopped to get some water and check the camera was still mounted properly. It was loose and wasn’t flashing to say it had recorded. I turned it on to find the SD card was not pushed in correctly. so no video of that bit. That resolved and working I got on the bike and headed off down the paved part of the trail.
Oh bugger I didn’t get any water, I’m sure there will be more places further along. The paving turned to gravel, to mud. Hard packed mud so no big issue. Within 20 minutes it was single track mud and dust on the side of the mountain.
The scenery was great and the riding more and more challenging. The little Honda was fully loaded with me and luggage, the hills sapped her power and there were several drops that made me think we’ll not get back up that we’re committed to this now.
There were places wide enough to stop, especially where the trail split into two. There are no maps or directions, my navigation had long ago given up showing any path. I chose the path that looked most used.
Pinning my hopes on a petrol station at the end of the trail. A trail I had been warned became very difficult near the end, when I said I was planning to ride it on a group on the Internet.
The thought of turning round was not good I had committed to several drops that would be beyond the bikes ability, but now I was on a path just wider than the bike. Either side was a sharp drop or incline and that was no longer rock but dusty earth offering no grip.
I could see a guy walking towards me. I switched off the engine and reached for some water. I only had 500ml from the hotel as I’d not purchased any when I had the chance.
The chap stopped and I asked if a bike could get through. No! He made it quite clear I needed to go back. How the hell do I turn round now?
This is the edited video footage up to this point in the tale.
The bike was easy enough to unload and I got rid of my riding gear and backpack.
The guy looked on as I pushed it backwards to a slightly wider part, man it was hot. In my youth as a trials rider I would have popped the front wheel in the air and spun it round on one foot. Here, I wasn’t sure Lilly had the power to loft the wheel high enough or me the skills to get it round. If anything went wrong, we would both be off down the mountain. So the only option was to drop the front wheel down the slope and try to turn it before we went too far down. The dust was deep and offered no purchase, by now the guy had grabbed the rack preventing the rear of the bike from sliding round which it needed to do if I was ever getting back up. Every time I pulled the front up the slope it slid back down. The bike now facing straight down the slope.
At this point, out of nowhere, a group of lads appeared and came to help. Between us, in about 20 minutes the bike was back on the track facing the correct way. I was shattered, Lilly had put on weight for sure. It must have been the dust, heat and angle of the slope that made it such hard work.
We all high fived and laughed at the lunacy of the crazy Brit, but now I had to get back and I wasn’t sure I had enough fuel. I definitely didn’t have enough water.
Waving goodbye, carefully I started back the way I had come. I had already thanked my Dad, a few times, for encouraging me to ride trials competitions. Now I needed to put those years of experience into practice proper. ‘Man it’s hot!’
A few little climbs over rocks, the very ones I had said to myself ‘thank god your going this way’, less than an hour before. Paddling to help Lilly climb was draining me, I was overheating. I stopped, removing my crash helmet I downed what was left of the water. Then tunnel vision came and I quickly sat down, I was passing out. Laying down with my knees up I waited for it to pass. Why is this happening? Oh wait you’ve been ill for three days and haven’t eaten for at least 36 hours. How stupid can one person be? Oh, stupid enough to be here alone with no phone credit and no safety beacon. “IDIOT”
I was up the first climb but there were at least three more I could remember and some dodgy bridges. I couldn’t put my helmet back on it made me feel ill. Great, I’m on the verge of passing out and my primary safety feature is now bungeed to the saddle. It worked well.
Next was a climb with two hairpin turns. I considered removing all the luggage, but I wasn’t up for the walk back to collect it all. I braced myself and fired Lilly at it in first gear. By the first corner I was feet down and pushing but it wasn’t enough and despite trying to slip the clutch to build engine revs, it was too much and she cut out. I could barely hold her upright. I waited for about a minute before trying again. Somehow we made it but again I was shattered and had to rest. I laid down for a few minutes before trying again but it was too soon, so back down I went.
Luckily I seemed to be picking the right path. It levelled off but I was acutely aware that I was struggling to lean into the upside of the mountain. That made me wobble lots and man I ached.
Another climb and another stop. This time because a bungee had come undone and wrapped round the wheel, eventually breaking. The bike had stalled. My crash helmet was being dragged along the ground on the remaining bungee. I started to sort that out by untangling the bungee wrapped round the chain and sprocket, at which point I unclipped my crash helmet and it slipped from my grip, rolling off down the mountain. Luckily it got caught on a rock some 20m away.
Just shy of dropping away to oblivion, the crash helmet rest against a rock.
Once back on the trail it was wider and less treacherous. I could feel all the strength in my arms had gone and I just sat on the bike slowly heading back. At the first roadside stop, the onecwhere I didnt buy water, I stopped and dragged myself off the bike. There were several little stores and one guy called me over. “Come, come, sit down, you need water”. It wasn’t a question he literally knew. I sat on the chair he provided and he came over with a bottle of water. He then said “You need energy I have food, wait I’ll get some, no charge”. Maybe this is a ploy he uses or his English makes it sound like he could see I wasn’t 100%. Anyway I chose egg, rice and hot dog sausage. It was delicious. I was busy scoffing when he appeared again with a bag and promptly covered what was left with a black shredded substance that tasted of oily fish. It was awful, so I picked around it. I had another water and a Coke. Within thirty minutes I was back on form although I ached.
What followed was my only smart move of the day. I parked outside the lodge I had stayed in a few days before on my first visit, jumped on their WiFi and booked a hotel in Bac Yen.
The rest of the day was good. I found a great guy who helped put credit on my phone, I ate delicious fried rice and slept really well.
Many little things came together to make the day what it was, but I ignored them until it was stupidly late. I count myself lucky to have got through it unscathed. However until that moment the path dried up I was loving it, testing myself and the bike on an incredibly beautiful trail.
I pride myself on knowing my limits both solo and in a group. Staying safe is a priority, but somehow, I let all that slip for the chance to ride a trail denied me the first time. Lesson learnt. No one got injured and I continue unscathed but a little wiser.
The Pot Noodle was in fact a Spag Bol, that tasted great.
Spaghetti Bol and Nescafe Coffee.
However, all was not well and there were rumblings in the tummy. Followed by a dash to the loo. I presume the cabbage salad had caused trouble at one end and the Spag Bol was having none of it either. It was a rough, painful night.
The next morning the vomiting had stopped. I asked reception if I could stay another day, they agreed. I cancelled the hotel I had booked for that night and I made myself go for a walk.
As expected there wasn’t much open, but Aha Coffee shop was. As I walked out a voice said “Hello”. I turned to see a guy and his children sat at the incredibly tiny seats they use here. “Please join us”. Mau Pham lives in Hanoi but is in Son La for the Lunar New Year. It was a lovely chat with him, his son, daughter and neice. He told me there would be a celebration in the square later that night. “I’ll be there”, I said, hoping I may actually feel well enough.
And so it was after a shower, snooze and more ‘movements’ I made my way to the town square. There’s a huge monument to Uncle Ho and tonight it was adorned with flowers and became a stage for dancers and singers, all supported by a huge crowd. Again I drew attention and there was lots of hand shaking, selfie with complete strangers and impromptu Google conversations. At midnight the dancing stopped and fireworks began.
Walking to the squareThe huge Uncle Ho memorialCrowds watch onThe Luner New Year is welcomed at midnight
The next morning Son La was a ghost town. It remained that way all day. May Pham contacted me to wish me a Happy New Year and offered help with getting my phone credit sorted. On advice I decided to stay another day. The rest was welcome and another trip to reception secured my room.
Son La has more coffee shops than even I need. However today’s choice had an amazing looking fruit smoothie.
Mango and coconut with granola. It was a meal, my only meal today.
I walked back to the Square to see it in daylight.
Immaculately cleanSon LaMe and Uncle HoTheres an 8 lane road right in front of the memorialSpring time, apparently. We’ll it was definitely warmer
I was again asked for several photos with women in traditional clothing. Stupidly I didn’t ask them to use my camera as well.
Me and Son La youth!
I’m out of here tomorrow as the sun is forecast to make an appearance
I opened the full length curtain that covers the glass door to my hut. My heart sank. The mist so thick I couldn’t see reception. Everything I’ve read about Dinosaur Trail says do not attempt this in reduced visability. But, you know me, I’ll give it a bash.
Someone stole reception
The road from the hotel rises and the access road to the trail is off to the left. I found it, but never got out of second gear, going so slowly as I just couldn’t see. The access road was fun. I’ve read that it is crumbling. You know if Vietnamese say its crumbling, then it’s pretty bad. It’s about 6km to the trail head. I pottered along dodging holes and slipping on gravel. There were homes to each side and a few other little bikes went past, all in the other direction.
The clearest view I had on the way to the trail
My nav said the access road ends where there is a choice of two paths. A closer look showed the map suggested the right hand one. It was a mix of skinny concrete, home made path, and mud. Almost immediately heading down very steeply. Tight turns and crazy gradients made the front wheel slide. Visability was getting better though.
Things were looking up, but surely, I should be looking down
After crossing this little bridge, it dawned on me that the trail should run along the spine of the mountains, not drop down the side of one. I turned round and fired Lilly at the climb. She didn’t like it. I was in first gear and paddling with both feet to maintain forward motion up the path. Sometimes she would manage but then a tight turn and climb would sap her tiny engine of power. The front wheel hardly touching the ground as the angle of climb and weight of luggage, on the back, did all it could to lift the front. All of which meant the wheel skipped perilously close to the edge and what may have been a very big drop. I didnt know as I couldn’t see and was fully concentrating on keeping us both on the skinny path. Eventually, very warm and grateful, I made it back to the top. At this point I turned towards the other option of pathway. Within 100m, several small bikes came out of the mist towards me, two stopped and I pointed, saying “Dinosaur Spine?” One girl called back “No no, today, dangerous fall”. Again if you know the Vietnamese, you’ll know when they say it’s dangerous, it’s DANGEROUS!!
And so it was that my exciting trip along the perilous path was over before it began. It was mid day and I had only made it 8km from my accommodation, in the wrong direction. I was cold, wet and a little miffed. I needed to get out of there.
Below the mist and cloud things got better but not warmer
The place I had taken the glorious sunset photos came and went in the mist. But from there it was all downhill for 10km. With Lilly in neutral I coasted down, the mist cleared and the temperature raised. It was whisper quiet, apart from tyre noise and on the tarmac the bike felt steady as I chose my line through hairpin corners, with only the slightest touch of brakes. 80kph is faster than their motorway speed and here I was torturing the knobbly tyres on the twisties. Obviously, there were times I had to grab a handful of brakes as the odd car came into view, but I was having fun. Yes, I was having fun.
The town of Bac Yen at the bottom of the 10km twisty road.
Bac Yen is a relatively large town, however today it was surprisingly quiet. In fact, hadn’t everywhere been very quiet? A quick look at my phone, oh yes Feb 9th, it’s Lunar New Years Eve. I best make a plan. Dragging out my phone I looked for a suitable place to be. Son La is one of the biggest towns this far north, I’ll go there and stay overnight. After the third closed petrol station I was starting to worry, but fear not the fourth was open. Whilst I am here I’ll book my hotel……. what’s this no signal? No my sim card has run out of data. Luckily I use offline mapping. There were endless miles of closed towns, empty roads and for some of it great scenery.
Arriving in Son La the search was on for a decent hotel. Plenty of homestays appeared at the roadside but I really wanted a hotel. I found nothing and in an attempt to use booking.com I went from closed shop to closed shop trying to guess WiFi passwords! They all use 68686868 or 123456789, but no, not here. Then I found Paradise Coffee, it was open. A cappuccino and WiFi what more do you want. So I booked into the Hoa Ban Tran Hotel. Its 800m away. Result!
When arriving at a hotel it rarely looks empty
I mean empty, nothing, but the door was open. Inside there was nothing just a bed frame in the lobby. A lady came from another room. She was unaware of any booking from what I could tell. We tried to communicate, I got that she was saying there’s another hotel up the road. She then proceeded to usher me out and onto the bike. She then tried to clamber onto the back of the bike. Now I sit a long way back and my rucksack touches the roll top bag on the rack. So with my rucksack slung in front of me she wedged herself between me and the bag. Suddenly realising, she had no helmet, she got back off and proceeded to run in front of me, directing me to the next hotel. That’s a service you don’t get at home.
The hotel has relocated to a much nicer spot. They cancelled my booking at the first, so I didn’t get charged by the website, then promptly booked me in at a cheaper price.
At this stage I had no idea how grateful I would be for a proper hotel.
There was nowhere to eat so I got myself a Pot noodle type thing, some coffee sachets and went to my room for the night….. TBC
Awoken by the drums and trumpets, I peered out the third floor window, to see the funeral procession walking past, up the steep road. The brightly coloured coffin held aloft by mourners was in stark contrast to the grey miserable day. Looking down to the entrance, the shiny tiles told me all I needed to know, Wet weather gear today.
I paid the guy in reception, who had spent the entire time on a mattress covered with a blanked, only standing to deal with their only customer. It was 500,000 Viet Dollars, which sounds a lot, but its actually about £7.50. You can’t put your tent up in a muddy, cabbage smelling field for that in the Uk and you’d not get free WiFi.
On the bike, headed out of town, I searched for somewhere to eat and drink. The only place open had a hotdog sausage and no bread. The coffee was the local stuff that tastes gritty.
I had two options, a relatively short ride of 97km or a longer, 247km, scenic route including a ferry crossing. I would decide at the point where the two routes separated. That decission came up in less than an hour, I wanted more time on the bike and who doesn’t love a ferry crossing?
Grey but dry, I’ll take thatThe scenery is still incredible
Watch the girl turn her bike. I know experienced riders who can’t do that.
The music in the video is apt, as I was on my way to happiness. As I rode up into the North, closing in on the Chinese border, the sun made an appearance and I was drying out.
You can see me taking this in the video
I was in a nice flow on lovely little back roads. I was having so much fun I even found a few miles of off road. I just went and played on the trails for half an hour before heading back to the same start point. That’s when you know you’re having fun.
It might not look sunny, indeed it wasn’t but I was warm Going up!Back on tarmac with blue skiesThe road hugged this lake
Then as I neared the end a 10km steep climb up through the clouds. I got a few glimpses of the clouds and sun. Then all of a sudden this clearing in the middle of roadworks gave me the opportunity to grab three photos before the sun set.
Little did I know these would be my best photos of cloud spotting
The lodge I was staying in looked amazing all modern lodges with double glazing. The lad at reception had no clue and no interest in my booking. He rang someone who must have told him to look on my phone and see how much I was paying. Clearly not enough for the nice lodges.
Looking like something from the cartoon Robots, this was my lodge.
By the time the bike was unloaded it was dark and misty. I walked to the row of roadside cafes but none were open. Eventually a nice guy showed me a resteraunt on Google maps. I rode there and chose from the limited menu. Cabbage salad and fries. It was really good food.
I’m not sure it’s safe for any human to consume that much raw cabbage, but it was good