Author: Silver fox adv rider

I was booked onto Enduro Madness on the 4th of May, but that was 8 days away. However, part of the deal is a taxi to pick you up at the airport. They happily sent my taxi a week earlier to my hotel and delivered me to Pattaya.

Now I have some days to kill. The hotel was lovely, placed at one end of the beach, quite some distance from the clubs at the other end, but luckily near a great shopping center.

Terminal 21 is laid out like an airport, with actual aircraft outside. Inside is a multi storey complex with areas defined as destinations. It has huge displays of iconic landmarks such as The Eifel Tower, leaning Tower of Pisa and the Golden Gate Bridge. I was fascinated with the place and the shops. There was even a cinema showing films in English. I found an Italian resteraunt and enjoyed pizza, a cheese board and a glass of red wine.

Each day involved at least one swim in the hotel pool. Often a refreshing break from the afternoon heat. On day two I walked the 3km beach finding more shopping centers and a market that had, of all things,another aircraft.

An ex Thai Air 747 was shipped here to be a resteraunt, but covid put an end to that, so it became a market area for street food vendors. In recent weeks the resteraunt idea had resurfaced and work was underway to give the aircraft a lick of paint.  Although there were ladders to the entrance I couldn’t get access to the inside.

I was finding that the heat sapped my energy and most evenings I was not really up for drinking in the open street bars. The humidity was crazy and every couple of days I was visiting the launderette.

A bit of research and I located Coffee War, a weird collection of aircraft and memorabilia disguised as a museum come coffee shop. The cheapest and most direct route was to take a taxi. Using the Grab app’ I selected my ride and within 4 minutes, I was being whisked the 30km to Coffee War for just under £8.

Despite being an odd collection it was perfect for me. I had my first coffee and cake onboard the Tri Star, which had been the main attraction prior to the new Airbus that stood proudly at the entrance to the ramshackle car park and disorderly array of displays. The lovely taxi driver had asked how long I would be and did I want to call her to come and collect me. An initial glance around and I assessed, two hours should do it. She said that was fine and to just call her when I was done.

I walked amongst the fixed wing and rotary wing aircraft, took selfies with giant fibreglass models of, very, American looking soldiers. I ambled in the sun, perusing the odd collections of Jeep and patrol boats. Walking through long grass and gravel to get to some aircraft, my mind constantly telling me the snakes will scarper.

I was baking and made my way to the covered outdoor coffee shop. Sitting on an ammunition box with my iced coffee resting on a crate with yet more American markings and semi draped with the Stars and Stripes flag, I really only had the Airbus and army surplus store to look at. It was another toasty day, so there no rush. But then a familiar voice said, “Are you finished?” I looked up and there was the taxi driver, a bit like the shop keeper from ‘Mister Ben’, she just appeared. I wasn’t ready and I felt another hour at least was reasonable. She explained that she had been waiting in the car park for two hours and she wasn’t going to wait another one, she continued, saying that this area was remote and I’d not get another Grab taxi out here. I negotiated another ten minutes and rushed around the army surplus store before jumping in the taxi and just like that, it was over, I wonder if ‘Mr Ben’ felt that way about his 10 minute adventures?

On the way back I contemplated, not only the good nature of this lady who sat in a car park for two hours to ensure a further £8 fare, but also that this was the first time in months that I had cut short a visit to appease someone else. It felt unnatural and affirmed my continued delight in solo travel.

The days rolled on as I filled them with, walks, swimming and eating at some lovely places. However it was just a waiting game and I wasn’t, out there, mixing and meeting the genuine people that make adventures fun, Pattaya is a playground for much younger people than me. However the days ticked by as I waited for the Enduro Madness to start…….

Somehow it was 8.30am before I got going from the hotel and the sun was already baking hot.

The planned route was as straight as I could get it and I was booked into the same hotel as when I started this leg of the trip.

However another slight detour happened when I saw a dragon wrapped round a building.

Around the base were flags from so many countries. I saw three lads posing with the Turkish flag. We spoke for a while, I showed them where I had been in Turkiye, on my trip in 2022. I had been through one of the lads home town, but all three agreed I’d seen more of their country than they had. I think that is common though, I’m sure many travellers have seen more of the UK than I have.

After a quick refreshing drink, it was back on Red and make for the hotel. It was just an hour, but in heavy traffic. The hotel was great in letting me into the room early. I got all my kit off Red and put the original phone holder back on, then headed to the bike wash.

The next morning I took Red Sled back to Emma’s Rental. She was pleased to see a clean bike. She quickly refunded me the full deposit and waived the two extra days costs. Just like that, I was in a ‘Grab’ taxi headed back to the hotel with no bike.

I’m not sure I mentioned this, but I have booked onto a 7 day Enduro Madness ride. Enduro Madness is the company and they lead groups on challenging rides. The bikes are supplied along with all the riding gear. They are based in Pattaya and that’s where I’m headed next.

UT as its known was celebrating New Year in great form. The water was refreshing in the daytime sun and evening heat. However there was no getting away from the soaking every time you go out. Again that’s OK unless you don’t want to sit in a resteraunt, dripping wet.

In all I stayed 4 nights in UT as it was a national holiday and some places remained closed. Most of the time I walked the local area, getting refreshing showers of water and talc smeared on my face. It was all such good natured fun, but by day 4 it was wearing thin. I’d had to get my laundry done again to remove the talc and smell of stale water. There was a large market most days and a huge air conditioned shopping centre that remained open.

The next place I wanted to visit should have been the first place I went having left Bangkok but I didn’t know that back then. Now it was 660km away, 2 or 3 days just to get there. Then 2 days there and maybe two days back to the hire shop, 7 days in total and I only had 5 days left on Reds rental. Another quick message to the rental company and Red was mine for an extra 3 days.

The journey was going to be by the fastest route, starting early. At 7.30am I checked out of the Udon Hotel and headed through the, now quiet and dry, streets. Stopping at PTT to top up on fuel and coffee. Out of the city the roads were straight and purposeful, just a means to move people and things as directly as they could. I was making good progress, cruising at 100kmh. There was nothing to see of note and a lot to concentrate on.

The sun was doing its best to burn me and before long, I was stopped at the roadside, putting on my long sleeve shirt and scarf. Dowsing it all with water, including my hair. If I could get 300km done today that would be great. I stopped again, each stop losing riding time but absolutely necessary. Rehydrate, ride, repeat. The repeats got more frequent as morning turned to afternoon. I found that often the staff car parks at the rear of the coffee shops have covered parking whereas customer parking was open. I was sneaking into staff parking more often. It was time to find a hotel and the Sweet Home Resort at Sing Buru was it.

It was again just a room to sleep, after all I had managed 400km today. I’d not eaten at all and finding somewhere to eat was impossible. I’d just left it too late, during the Songkran festival everywhere closes early. I did get a basic breakfast the next day and topped that up with a good coffee and orange juice. Ready to hit the road again. Only 159km to go, it was 7.30am, so I headed with bottles of water stashed in the bike.

One quick detour to see the biggest Buddha in Thailand

That done I had to crack on, every day my phone had extreme heat warnings flash up. I can only assume that’s a feature of running a Thai sim card. If that wasn’t enough, if I stopped the phone would drop into night mode as it was overheating. Sometimes it would say stay on this road for 50km and I could turn it off to try and cool it.

It was 1.50pm as I rolled into Kanchanaburi and to the very nice Modeva Hotel. The room wasn’t ready but I wasn’t heading back out. It was only a ten minute wait, before I was granted access and the cool shower I needed so badly. I was really happy to have made it.

I was here to see a structure that spans the Mae Klong waters. The steel bridge number 227. It carries a railway line. That railway runs from Malaya to Myanmar. However the names I have given so far, although true, hide the identity as we know it. The railway line is better known as the death railway, the river is the Kwai Noi and that bridge is ‘The Bridge On The River Kwai’, one of two built by prisoners of war.

At about 4.30pm with sunset imminent, I took a walk to the bridge. Now this bridge is not the famous one from the film, that was a wooden trellis bridge some 200m south of here. But this bridge was equally interesting as it was also built by POW’s but the main steel structure was a bridge much further south that was dismantled and shipped here to be placed on the piers built to support it. Originally, all the sections had curved spans, but after allied bombing the centre was replaced with locally built square sections.

It was time to eat, in my soggy clothes, again.

Next day I was off to the museum at the site of the original wooden bridge

I’ve tried to research these two but the helo’ had no markings other than a German cross and 7574 and the Cessna just a Chiang Mai flying club tail marking. Subsequently I seem to have found these are parts of the art gallery not war museum.

Walking through the museum I started to get a feel for the conditions the POW’s had endured. I have previously read The Railway Man and that gives graphic depictions but here there were photos and more first hand tales.

The war cemetery is one of three, my story jumps a bit here, but subsequently I found out that all but 50 bodies of the thousands buried along the railway were recovered. Nearly 7000 men are buried here and one woman. I learned about Phoebe Mercer from a War Graves Commission website. She was a member of the Women’s Royal Volunteer Service. During WW2, she applied to help out in the war effort in Burma. Initially, she literally built and ran a canteen for servicemen on their way to the fighting. However, after the war, she remained to help repatriate POW’s. She was, for some, the first woman they had seen for years, most had difficulty in adapting to the freedom they now had. Tragically Phoebe died in a car accident nearing the end of her tender. It was felt that her work in helping POW’s adjust to civilian life, earnt her a place in the cemetery. However despite the headstone, records of her burial place were never completed so the war graves commission, had to say they didn’t know her burial place, until Nov 2012 when an American noticed the grave and did some digging around to eventually notify the WGC of the location.

The next morning I was off to Hell Fire Pass. It was about an hour up the road and would include a long walk. So I set off at 7am to avoid the sun. I had to stop en route for coffee. After quite a prolonged stop I arrived at the Hell Fire Pass remembrance center. A very modern building and museum paid for and maintained by the Australian Gov’t. The museum tells of the POW’s long trip from Singapore to help build the passes through the mountains.

As the need for the railway increased so did the working day and a period known as ‘Speedo’ was introduced whereby the engineers pushed the POW’s harder than ever.

With a headset and two way radio, supplied by the reception I carried on walking past the memorial. Listening to genuine accounts of life as a POW. On the hours the two way radio crackled into life, a welfare check as the route can be hazardous.

Harrowing story after harrowing story, but what came through was the comradery amongst POW’s. “There’s no point moaning it does you no good, this was our lot” one said. But they all supported each other, even skipping work to hold a dieing man’s hand, knowing they would be punished.

I could go on and on, maybe I have! Now it was time to move on. I was in bed early and ready to go bright and early.

My next planned stop was Udon Thani, I hoped to be there for the Thai New Year, my third new year this year. But the journey would require one or two overnight stops. I contacted Steve for any suggestions. He sent back a route via Nan, weirdly it had a strange loop near the end of the leg to Nan. The note said, if you have time to do the loop, you must. By now I knew, if Steve says you must, then you must. But first I had to get there and it would just be a case of getting the kilometres done.

My first stop was more of a double take as I went past and had to go back. I saw a waterway full of people. I spun the bike round and went back. Parking up I stood and watched for a while. It was like a small festival, loud booming music played from the banks of, what turned out to be, a large pond. Men, women and teens were dragging nets or lifting and lowering suspended nets to catch fish. An old lady waved me over and walked me along the bank, telling me in her best Thai, all about what was going on. As we walked fish, thrown from the water, flew past our heads. Quickly scooped up and put in big buckets. At the end of the path an old man and younger woman had a sidecar with a bucket of fish and a small bonfire. She explained that it happens a few times a year and is a social event for the town. The old man handed me a glass with clear liquid and insisted I drink it. It smelt like raw potato and was intact Thai Whiskey. I gulped it down, trying not to look shocked as it burnt my throat. I couldn’t stay, despite their kind offer, in any case I don’t like fish or Thai whiskey.

Walking back to Red,I saw the lights were on. I’d not turned the ignition off, my mind flashed back to that sign in the hire shop warning me to always fully turn off the ignition. Luckily Red fired up without issue and I was off.

I was headed for Loei as that was about third distance. Mapping was set to avoid major roads and the rest of the day was riding along country lanes in parkland and open fields, through numerous small towns and villages. Eventually the larger town of Leoi came into view and my hotel for the night.

So this was just a stop over, time for a shower, a trip into town for food then bed.

Now this leg of the trip has the Steve Coupland addition. The ride was very nice, just whipping along the country roads and as the day was concluding I started the additional loop. A road that contains a copy of every race circuit corner in the world. It was incredible. The bike was happy being thrown from one perfect tarmac corner to the next, on and on it went. There was a stretch known only as corner number three, but it was signposted for miles.

It was late afternoon and as ever I was quite warm. I spotted a great place to join the locals. I was invited to sit at one of the tables, drink iced water and eat fruit. I took a quick swim before heading off.

I completed the extra loop that Steve suggested and made it to Nan. What I needed was a nice hotel with great shower and food. So why then did I book an authentic Thai homestay? Absolutely what I didnt want, however the hosts where lovely. A husband and wife with their charming little girl. At about 5yrs old she spoke perfect English. The house was old, like, historically old. It was dark wood and the door to my room was closed from the inside by a block of wood to secure it. It was so hot. The modern air con unit was next to useless, showing 32° when I turned it on and 26° the next day when I left.

I found an Italian resteraunt called Near Nirvanan. Great name, average food.

Next morning, and Grumpy from lack of sleep, I left early, to get coffee and fuel. Hitting the road to Udon Thani, it was much as the day before, huge fun. I found a waterfall that charged you to enter but failed to mention the absolutely no swimming rule.

Steve had mentioned an excellent coffee shop and I was keen. So keen that heading down a particularly twisty road, I smelt hot brakes. Then I noted that I was no longer using just two fingers on the front brake but four and Red was still running away. I was effectively making the brakes so hot they started to fade. I stopped at the coffee shop. An ideal time to let the smoking brakes cool. The coffee shop, my main driving force to be here, was closed.

As the brakes ticked and pinged adding their own smoke to the atmosphere, I searched online and found a hotel in Udon Thani and booked two nights. It fitted the bill. The centre of UT and near good resteraunts.

The rest of the journey was simple enough and I was reminded that it was the start of the Thai New Year (Songkran). That reminder came in the form of children at the roadside throwing water at passing vehicles and bikes. It was refreshing and dried quickly. It only happened about 7 or 8 times and was always welcome.

Rolling into UT the hotel couldn’t come quick enough. Traffic was slow, traffic lights painfully long on red and the sun was beating down. I abandoned the bike under a cover in the car park.

I must have come out the shower and fallen asleep, only to wake about 8pm. It was dark and there was a huge party going on somewhere. Walking out onto the balcony I saw it was a whole street party. The main street through town.

It was a late night but so much fun.

I stayed for a few days and did some touristy stuff so here goes….

Wat Rong Khun, to give it the correct name is a Buddhist temple completed in 1997. I had noticed within the main atrium murals, characters from The Matrix, Star Wars and Dr Who. Unfortunately you cannot take photos inside.

That evening I headed off to the blue temple. Another new temple completed in 2016, its stark colours are in direct contrast to the white temple.

There was a thunderstorm that evening, it lasted about twenty minutes and caused at least two power cuts.

The next day I had a few chores to do then headed for ‘The big Buddha’ as its called. In fact it is Guan Yin the goddess of mercy. Even from afar you can tell its no small structure.

The it was suddenly my last day in Chiang Rai and I had something special planned. A visit to The Elephant Peace Project. It was set up by the younger people of the Karen Tribe of Nomads. For years the Karen tribe kept elephants as members of the family. A mahout or trainer would devote his life to his elephant, supplying all its needs from medical aid to finding it food in hard times. The elephants worked with the mahout daily, mostly assisting in the logging industry. But with numbers in decline and machinery taking over the Thai government made working with elephants illegal. Some mahout would take their elephants to make money by giving rides or performing for tourists, but this was controlled by unscrupulous people who worked the elephants and handlers hard for very little reward. The Karen tribe decided to step away from this life and instead for the past 20 years have used the project to educate people about the Karen way and to teach people how they care for the elephants. It was important for me to know I wasn’t feeding into the cruel workings of the Tourist industry.

At about 8am I was collected by a lady in a battered pick up truck, climbing into the rear I met Paco from Spain. He was travelling Asia also, but a much longer trip than mine. We chatted, as we rattled along to the project some 30 minutes away.

On arrival there were 3 elephants to be seen, two females and a male. The male had chosen one of the females as his mate and the other was a lone female. We were seated outside and told about the animals as they wandered over to look at us, between shovelling huge amounts of palm leaves in their mouths. If they got to close the mahout would encourage them away with words of command. Words we would have to learn!

Theres a difference between riding an elephant and driving an elephant. Riding is being carried often in cradles slung on the elephants back, driving is the act of sitting up front and encouraging the animal to do what you want.

First however, you have to introduce yourself to the elephant. We went over and standing in front of each elephant it was lovely to just reach out and hold it, they aren’t as big as African elephants, but they still have a big and gentle presence.

Then as trainee mahout me and Paco had to help prepare banana trees for the elephants to eat. We were each entrusted with a machete to cut the tree into bite size chunks. I didnt think to ask for photos of this finger severing opportunity.

Having been fed, we all walked to the huge watering hole where the elephants enjoyed being scrubbed and washed. Again no photos.

We then moved on to learning words of command and how to climb onto your elephant. We were both told this was entirely voluntary and there was no pressure to engage further if we didn’t want to. The mahout would be with us, walking and for a short period we would be the trainee mahout! We both wanted to test out our skills. Armed with plenty of bananas we climbed aboard our chosen mount and were serenely taken on a walk, I’m kidding no one, to say my words of command were in any way being followed by the elephant. But it wasn’t an elephant ride for sure.

Paco also did a circuit on his chosen elephant and after, we both agreed it was a fantastic experience that we had both looked at for some time before signing up to the Elephant Peace Project.

We joined some of the Karen Tribe for a meal before saying farewell to the elephants and the organiser. We both needed to pay for the experience and it’s no bad reflection that we tipped them well. 

I had done my best to find an ethical and proper elephant experience. I came away feeling I had done just that and had impacted little on the life of the elephants, mahout and their way of life. I was certain the funds only went towards the animals food and welfare.

Next morning I was headed off again.

I was really pleased with the little hotel I’d booked for two days. The parking was on street but with CCTV.

I set aside day one for getting my visa extended. I was at the offices for 8.30 opening,to find loads of people already there, at least 100 people. I quickly got the three new forms I needed and filled them in. Then went to the volunteers who check them. “All good” she said, followed by “Do you have your queue number?” No, I didn’t, so it was back to another office to get that raffle ticket. The whole process was taking place outdoors in a big marquee. It was already very hot as I sat on the plastic seat, awaiting my turn. Sipping slowly on my water, I was prepared for a long wait. I opened my book to read, but within two pages, my number was called. Documents officially checked, I was sent inside to complete the process. A quick photo, sit down for 15 minutes, hand over £38 and hey presto, visa extended. Following advice I had been given, seen on YouTube and read on signs in the office, I checked the new expiry date. It was correct. All done in under an hour.

Another story for you. Remember my concerns about Reds tyres? Well I had taken a good look at them and it was obvious Red has only really lived in a city. The rear tyre was squared off and the front worn to a ‘V’ which happens as a result of the rear being square. I sent a message to the hire shop explaining. I also had photos but chose not to send them at first. Almost immediately a message came back asking how many km I had done. I told them it was about 2500km. Again without hesitation a message came back. “Get two new tyres and brake pads front and rear, have the shop call me and I’ll pay over the phone”. It doesn’t get easier or better than that. The first garage I went to didn’t have a matching pair of tyres. The second one did. I was ushered to the air conditioned waiting room, given bottles of chilled water and less than an hour later, handed a receipt, stamped ‘PAID’. Red was transformed.

Day 2, off to see more Wats. I won’t bore you with them other than to say they were very nice and all within a short walk of the hotel.

On the way back to my hotel, I stopped off at a tour office to book an evening of Boxing the following day. I popped back into the hotel and signed up for one more night. Then after avoiding the crippling heat for a few hours I headed into the new town.

Now, I know the saying “eat where the locals eat”, but I just can’t do it. Not only do I have a very Western pallate, I also can’t eat where there are cockroaches running about the food prep area of the street food stalls. So a nice Italian did the job. They probably have the same issues, but out of sight, out of mind. After that, I was walking home past an open air bar. I sat down and ordered a JD and coke. That arrived and after about 20 minutes, glass nearly empty, a waitress came over and refilled it. I didnt really want a second. Nearing the end of that one I kept my hand over the glass and asked for the bill. It arrived, 1800baht or £39. I questioned it. The reply was, “We don’t sell single drinks we only sell the bottle”. There was a stand off. I didnt want to pay and I certainly didn’t want a whole bottle of JD. There were no signs stating that policy, people drinking beer didn’t buy a whole crate or barrell. I was getting quite angry. In the end, I paid and left, without the bottle. There was no point getting angry as it wouldn’t solve anything and there was no manager on site, so it was pointless arguing with staff.

The next day I was walking the town, still angry at the situation, when I spotted the Tourist Police office. Having explained the situation and accepted it was probably my fault, the officer disagreed. She had never heard of that happening. She agreed it should be signed and explained. She gave me the Police contact number, as I said I would go back and try to negotiate further. She offered, if there was a problem to call them and they would attend. Bolstered by the confidence she gave me, I went back. Some of the staff recognised me. I chatted with one of them who said the manager was not on site and he didn’t speak English. Anyway, after about 10 minutes of explaining and questioning their policy, the guy behind the till left. I watched as he went to the open door of an outside elevator, attached to the hotel of the same name, where he spoke to someone who didn’t come out. He returned to the till. He apologised on behalf of the, non present, manager and handed me back my money, less the two I agreed to pay for.

Another afternoon spent avoiding the heat and it was time to go boxing. I was collected by an open air taxi, or pickup to you and me, along with 5 others we jolted our way to, what was described as, an air conditioned boxing stadium. The air was conditioned alright, with Ralgex! Man it was awful, but the fighting was excellent. A thoroughly good night out

The rest of the ride was straight, multi lane roads. At larger junction, of which there were lots, the traffic lights with timers to show how long you would be held on red. Its impossible not yo get caught at a red and its a painfully long 120 seconds wait in the seering heat. By the fourth set sweat poured down my back and the crash helmet started to cook my head. I took to, spotting the lights then seeking shade at the side of the road to wait, but that wasn’t always possible. Eventually I spotted the clock tower in Chiang Rai and very close by was my hotel.

I took a walk towards the night market, noting a Pizza Hut next to the clock tower and the Chiand Rai Social Club directly opposite my hotel. As I walked I sent a message to Doug Mills, an ozzy I had been following on Facebook and literally round Thailand. He was at a bar nearby watching Ozzy rules football. After a quick walk round the, not yet open,night market,I made my way to Rose’s Bar. Doug was an enthralling character, with tales from his trip through Malaysia after a month long wait for their bike to be released from the port. Him and his wife were off to Laos next and I told him my struggles with Laos, but he seemed confident his research had been good, whereas mine really wasn’t. After a few beers and a lesson in Ozzy rules, we went our seperate ways. I walked back towards my hotel and stuck my head in the Chiang Rai Social Club. Effectively, a bar run by an expat American called Steve. On his recommendation, I ordered a BLT and fries. I then got chatting to a guy, I forget where he was from, but two others at the club were from UK, Hampshire, in fact. Just 20 miles or so from where I live. Josh and Matt where school friend who reunited in Chiang Rai by accident. Matt was travelling and Josh was on a break from his mining job in Australia.

After a few JD’s I noticed a couple on the sofa. It was Doug and his wife Sloane. I went over and spent a good 40 minutes with them and the pub puppy ‘Baba’.

It was soon time for bed, tomorrow, temples!

Everyone says, you must ride the road from Pai to CM. They talk about its beautiful vistas and sweeping curves through the mountainous region. I’d been told this as far back as Ha Long Bay in Vietnam. They weren’t wrong, but as you’ll know I’ve done some pretty epic roads on this journey and this was, almost, run of the mill by now.

The first stop was at the Pong Duet Geyser. The water is 98° and stinks of sulphur but is very impressive. The walk to it was just 1km with the promise of wildlife. I saw nothing.

Further along, with the sun doing its usual thing, I stopped at the Mok Fa Waterfall. Again it was a short walk but it was so worth it.

Dripping wet I got back on Red, knowing full well I would be dry in 20 minutes. Once dry I was ready for coffee. There was a junction ahead and that usually means a coffee shop. This junction was no different, only it was!

The Air Diamond Cafe and hotel were quite incredible, what a shame I had already booked a hotel for the night. The aircraft is an Airbus A300, formerly of Thai Airways. It was taken out of service in 2014 after it ran off the runway whilst turning ready to depart (last pic). It was repaired and flown to Bangkok but that was its last flight and it was purchased to be a posh coffee shop in a car park. It is raised up just enough that coaches can go under the wings and the whole aircraft creates a shaded parking area for cars and bikes.

I may have wasted a lot of the afternoon in that car park. However, from there, it was just a short ride to Chiang Mai.

The route to Pai is the main road and as such, surely it would be gorgeous tarmac. I got myself ready and headed to Pands coffee shop for breakfast. She wasn’t up, so I waited. In due course she came across from her house. As we waited for the coffee to warm Pand told me she wants to travel and asked how she can afford it. I was a bit lost, her shop is on the outskirts of the town, fairly hidden and competing with a few big names. I told her she has a wonderful country to explore and that the only way is for her to save up, every penny. It’s what I did, but for me it was so much easier with Western pension schemes and a few years in a well paid job. I felt sorry for her, she wants to see the world but it will take a huge upheaval to make that happen. We chatted until it was time for me to pay up for the two coffees, fruit and sticky banana rice. Pand would only accept payment for the coffee.

Let’s discuss snakes. I was expecting to see snakes. I’ve no reason to dislike them, but I’m not a fan. On my last visit to Vietnam, I had seen two, a dead hooded cobra and another smaller one in the death throws having been run over. So I had been on my guard. I had seen a lot of cane snakes which were just sticks of sugar cane, brown stick snakes which were just sticks, numerous fan belt snakes, which always made me jump and even a bootlace ‘snake’ in the road. This time though as I rounded a left onto an uphill straight, I saw it. The very obvious shape of an outstretched snake. I wanted a photo, so I slowed, but no sooner did I touch the brakes than it turned and shot into the undergrowth. I was still 25m away. How did it know? I think their eyesight is poor, so maybe sound, smell and vibration alerted it. Anyway it was gone and I’d missed my photo op.

The road was really good, smooth with flowing curves. I was still cautious of the tyres but was making good progress. Another long straight beckoned for more throttle, followed by harsh braking as the tarmac just stopped, no warning just a drop onto stones and gravel. Oh well they must be resurfacing, I thought to myself. Five kilometers later I wasn’t so sure, but the mapping said it was still the main road and the 4x4s coming towards me were not indicating that I was doing anything wrong.

Having made it to Pai, I rode through the town. I hadn’t booked anywhere to stay. Then at a junction in the centre I saw a cafe that advertised Sunday Roasts, was it Sunday? I went in. It was!

As I scoffed my roast, I looked for a place to stay and chose a reasonable one at a price I could afford. Booked, I clicked on the directions to it. Well what do you know, I could see it out the cafe window.

It was time for a rest day. The last two days were amazing but also quite tiring. Pai offers a gorgeous town rest area, surrounded by beautiful countryside.

I was up early, in fact so early the cafe wasn’t open for breakfast. I wandered the small town and found a list of tours. I quickly jotted down the ones I wanted to see and went for breakfast.

The first stop was the Bamboo bridge, made by Buddhist Monks to traverse the rice fields and link two small villages with each other and the temple. It offers a dry and sustainable route, hovering just above the rice fields. I saw some local workmen re-roofing one of the small rest areas, using leaves and vines to make strips of weather proof roofing. The lattice pattern of bamboo strips creaks as you walk on it, but it’s strangely relaxing as the spring in the bamboo cushions each step. The rice fields barren and dry offer slim pickings to the numerous water buffalo. The baby ones prancing about whilst older and wiser ones seek the cooling mud holes to wallow in.

On the way back to the bike park there is a little cafe. I went over and ordered a strawberry smoothie. Upstairs is an open deck with scatter cushions and small tables. I sat in one of two hanging chairs, looking out over the rice fields, bridge, temple and waterbuffalo. Relaxing music played over the gentle clanging of cow bells. I could just fall asleep in this shaded bliss.

Next on the list was the War Memorial bridge. It drew my attention as I’d not seen any ‘war’ items advertised. A little research showed that Thailand was neutral in WW2, right up until 8th of Dec 1941 and a 5 hour in vision by Japan, which led to an alliance between Japan and Thailand. This allowed Japanese military to cross the country to get to Burma. This necessitated crossing the Pai river. The original bridge was made of wood and was built by locals who were paid by the Japanese army. It hugely benefitted the locals as well. When the Japanese had to retreat, they burnt down the bridge, leaving the locals to, once again, resort to a bamboo ferry to. So they rebuilt the bridge which stood until a flood washed it away in the early 1970’s, after which the iron structure that is there today was built.  So its not the original, nor the replacement, but the replacements replacement!

NEXT!

I was off to the Pai Canyon. I stopped for an ice-cold coconut drink before embarking on the very short hike to the canyon. On the way, two French lads had seen a snake and were trying to locate it in the fallen leaves. I had my camera ready, I mean, who doesn’t want to see a French man get bitten by a snake? However, the snake made good its escape.

I had intended to stay for sunset but the quiet peaceful setting, started to fill up. I didnt want to stay with hoards of people, so I left. On the way out I heard a huge scratching noise from the tree next to me so I stopped to look. I just caught sight of a lizard that had been running round the tree. It stopped dead still and now it was hard to see.

Back on ‘Red’, I headed for the giant Buddha in Pai itself. The sun was racing me and there’s 330 steps to climb. I cheated and found a back road two thirds of the way up. 110 steps later I was ready for the sunset over Pai

And as the light faded I rode the very short distance back to my hotel. Ready to get cleaned up for the evening. Pai is a lovely hippy style town with great attractions. I’m glad I didn’t just roll through, on my way to Chaing Mai

My local bar was closed so I walked to ‘C’ bar where I met Ekk the owner and a Fin named Sam. Great news, Sam had extended his visa, today, at the Pai immigration office and it had only taken an hour. After 4 JD and coke, 1 rum and coke, at least 3 tequila and 2 sambuka, we shut the bar and walked to another that stays open late  Ekk was off to Bangkok tomorrow, this was his only chance to party. I could take no more and headed back.

The next morning I was feeling delicate, but I was going to stay an extra day and get my visa done. The hotel extended my stay and registered me with the immigration office. I crossed the road to my favourite cafe, I needed a light breakfast. The door was locked and a sign I’d not seen before said ‘Closed on Tuesdays’. I then walked to the nearby store to get my passport photo and copies of my passport. All done for £3.

Then on to the immigration office. Sure enough I was the only one in there. I had everything prepared I just needed to fill in three forms. The officer gave me the forms and told me the chief who signs the extensions would not be in until Friday. His suggestion was to get it done at Chaing Mai. A bit deflated I headed back out into the sun, put my shoes back on and looked for shade and a cold drink. I spent most of the day catching up on blogs and video editing.

Come the evening I had eaten some food and was enjoying a smoothy at one of the many small cafe/bars, when Sam the Fin turned up. He had only just left his house and was feeling way too delicate to entertain food or drink. About an hour later after the sun had set I strolled back towards my hotel, “Hello handsome Englishman”, I heard from one of the bars. I recognised the voice of Ekk. Ayr and him sat facing the street. Ekks holiday had been put back a day. I joined them. We had a good laugh and I ate quite a bit of Ayr’s take away. Unusual for me as it was a very spicy pork and rice meal, but she was happy to share. I wasn’t going to start drinking with them again so we had one more photo and I said goodbye.

The ever helpful and knowledgeable Steve Coupland, who’s posts I had seen on social media had sent me a route he thought I would like. I’m also pretty sure that Steve had said, “Are you going to ride the Dinosaur Backbone?” And we know how that went! He sent me some information on Mae Seriang to Mae Cheam. His words were, the route is great, the road surface breaks up a bit, but you’ll be fine.

I headed off and before long was treated by the turning from the main road onto the much narrower side road that indicated the start of Steve’s route. It was lovely, narrow and twisty, the surface was paved and in great condition.

The route Steve gave me terminated at the Mae Cheam Gate Resteraunt and he told me there was a great coffee shop very close to it. That coffee shop is owned by Pand and it is indeed very good. She was great fun and I said I would be back for my morning coffee.