2024 S. E. Asia

In the morning Jan traded the can of beer he had brought me the night before for two coffees from Mark. We packed up and set off picking up the trail within a few km.

We rode for less than 30 minutes before finding a little side track with the words ‘Offroad Camping’ we went along and discovered the most unusual campsite yet. Dedicated to offloading fans it was an oasis of glorious machines and relics alike. From the beautifull International V8 step side pickup to the old VW Beetle sat in the grounds. The owner and his wife had made this place astonishingly brilliant. We had coffee and walked around with the owner. They do quad adventure rides on decent Polaris quads, electric ski scooters and snow mobiles. They even have chariot racing behind the quads. In the centre of camp is a 60’s style filling Station, but actually its a lodge. If we had only known the night before. I really had to tear myself away.

Jan and I rode on to Grasheden our departure point. Jan was heading off to Norway and back home. I was headed further up Section 4 to the water crossing. I’ve read about it and we met 3 Germans who had come from that direction. They said they wouldn’t do it alone and that it’s herder headed North. Jan was worried for me but it was time to head off, we had lunch together before saying goodbye.

I was back on the trail alone and getting along quite well, knowing at some point the water crossing would be upon me and suddenly it was. There used to be a bridge but it collapsed a few years ago and the alternative is a short river crossing or a 200km ride around.

Having done some trials riding I knew you have to walk as much as you can first to assess the crossing. Getting to the water was fair easy. The water itself was running fast and there were a few large rocks on this side. After that a fairly defined route across. But then I could see a lot of mud on the other bank. But that’s the other bank, right?

I put one phone in a plastic bag in my pocket, I don’t know what use it would be as there’s no signal out here. The other phone in the waterproof panniers. I strapped my rucksack to the luggage and went through it in my head. Traction control off, ABS off, ride down this bank and line up then get across without putting your feet down if you can.

I started the bike, rode down the bank, go pro’s on. I lined up and picked a route through the first few rocks and set off. Over the first few rocks and then the front wheel lodged. I put both feet down and felt the water flood into my boots. I gunned it but no power! Stupid boy I had not switched off TC and ABS. That’s another 5 seconds in the water waiting for that lot. Then I gunned it and was through and into the mud. Stuck fast.

Gunning it now was of no use. Now it’s brute force to muscle it out. After the first fall, I took all the luggage off. After the second fall all my riding gear came off. I was sweating in the heat even my feet where hot on the water logged boots. Using sticks and rocks under the rear wheel I got it moving, 1 metre, but that’s a start. She’s no lightweight at 250kg and to be on the safe side I had just filled her with fuel at lunch. That’s 23 litres of fuel. Stood next to it and pushing I made progress.

I had al.ost reached dryer ground but now the back was stuck fast and the front was on the wrong side of a big stone, which wasn’t moving. I laid the bike on its right side, packed sticks and rocks under the rear wheel, lifted it up and tried again, nothing. I put it back down on its right side and with all my strength lifted and dragged the front wheel over the rock and back onto the path. It was a massive effort to get it back on its wheels but I managed. It’s now just 5 metres to some mossy dryer land. I sat astride the bike switched on the ignition disabled TC and ABS, pressed the starter and nothing! The engine spun over but no way was it starting. Two times, three times and on the fourth nothing.

I took a break and went back down to the waters edge to collect my kit. Several draining trips back and forth to collect it all and I was roasting again but the bike had cooled a bit. I knew whilst wrestling the bike over the rock, at times the wheels where higher than the fuel tank and bikes have a fuel cut off in case of an accident, but this was no accident and I had to hope the switch would reset itself.

I stood beside her and once more pressed the starter button and she purred into life. A quick shove and some gas and we were on the dryer stuff. Helmet back on and in seconds I was back on the track. A further 20 minutes and the luggage was on but I was a strap missing. I had to go back to the waters ages to recover it, luckily I did as the security lock was also there.

This is such a long episode I will post the rest later. But I was back on the track riding fast with a huge sense of achievement. The words of the Germans ringing in my ears “You mustn’t do this alone, there is no way you will get through heading North” the grin on my face was so big it hurt.

Camping at Sveg With two other TET riders CRF300L and CB500X

What I didnt mention in the last entry was that I met a German guy Jan who now lives in Sweden and had recently purchased a Yamaha T7. He was loving it and we chatted about bikes, the YET and all sorts. I tried to help him with his mapping app but his phone refused to play ball. He asked if I’d mind him joining me for a while to try the TET.   Marbacken. Jan ran bike tours in Bali before bike tours were a thing and in doing so has a network of friends around the world. He is a very interesting guy who now owns some properties he rents out as holiday homes in Sweden.

So it was that we set off about 10.30 in the morning. His parting words the night before ringing in my ears, “I hope you know how to ride, I mean not so slow”

It was a short run from the campsite at Marbacken to the first gravel track where I led the way. We were getting along at a good pace and when we took a break I was pleased that he liked how I rode.

Setting off again we found the track became more rocky and twisty. We were flying along both thoroughly enjoying our bikes. It was fast, tricky and above all an absolute blast.

Soon enough we were back on the gravel topped lanes

Now, if the T7 has one fault its the fuel range. I’ve riden with friends who have them and the T7 does love a petrol station and now Jan was going to need fuel. We checked and checked again it was 23km to the nearest fuel. So we left the TET and headed off in search. Eventually some 30km later we found fuel, coffee and cake. The decission now was ride back to where we left off and then another 50km to Salen or just take a scenic road to Salen just 30km. The good news is that Salen has a sports outlet store and that means sleeping bags, no more freezing nights. The scenic road was great and the Honda purred along through the sweeping bends.

Having got my new sleeping bag we started to look for lodging as Jan stays in accommodation on his trip. I had a huge pizza whilst Jan searched and we agreed on Salen Vandrar Hem lodge.

Its a lovely lodge run by a British guy, Mark and his German girlfriend. The only thing was that the price kept going up. Mark joked about recently putting the prices up as he doesn’t want to work and will force himself to for the money, which is fine unless you are joking about it to the very people you are trying to get money out of.

The place was great in lovely surroundings. There was a short walkway in the grounds along the river bank. Back in the room I charged every gadget I had.

I was pleased to wake up early and pack away a dry tent. It was 8.15 when I set off and was soon back on the trail. Something didnt feel right and 15 minutes in I realised why. Parked at the side of the track was a Pontiac Firebird in black. I instantly recognised it from the day before, i was on the track but heading the wrong way!

Back at the start again I was pleased to be tested with some more technical rocky sections and tight woodland but this soon gave way to wide twin track paths and gravel.

As a fairly new rider on a big bike in gravel, last time was 1981 on a Honda XR500, I had to learn how the bike handled best and within a short period of time I found standing and steering through weight shift on the footrests left the bars to slew in the gravel but ultimately science made the wheel stay roughly straight. The bike was free to weave whilst I held a light grip on the bars, shifting body weight forward and back depending on terrain.

Later the trail became roads and then I found another Honda Africa Twin. It belonged to Thorsten Dörfler. He was doing a few days on the TET. His bike was well kitted out but he wouldn’t give me his tyres.

I continued on, stopping to pick up some provisions for tea. At about 5pm I happened upon a great little campsite. Skogsgarden site is a family business which is growing yearly. The area is great with lots of areas to pitch up in solitude. I pitched close to the toilet block and outdoor kitchen. I then set about cooking, well what can only be described as severed thumbs!

It had rained loads all night and as a result I was up and trying to get warm with coffee and porridge. The rain had stopped but was threatening to return. There’s nothing worse than packing a wet tent. Anyway I filled my hydration pack from the water Lisbeth had supplied and returned the container to her post box as she had asked. By 8am I was back on two wheels, still cold and feeling damp despite not being even slightly wet.

Within 30 minutes I was at Isaberg ski resort. The mountains around scared by ski runs and ski lifts. There was a sign advertising coffee but maybe the people of Isaberg don’t need coffee before mid day as that’s the time they opened. However the ride up there had been fun.

I was riding mostly wide gravel top lanes and small roads. I stopped in a tiny village to admire their church and the strange building next to it. The key in the door was worth the stop alone

I had no clue as to the red building but saw just one guy in the area so I asked. He informed me it was the bell tower and they had rung the bells earlier that day to signify a funeral day. “That’s why it’s so busy here today”. I looked around there was not another soul or sound to be seen or heard. I thanked him and set off, but not before the church cat had visited for some fuss.

For lunch I had Swedish meat balls, gravy and mash. It was great with free refill coffee.

The road had been climbing and it was chilly in the wind despite the clear skies. Then all of a sudden I saw Vattern Lake, you’d swear it was the sea. I remember when planning the route, thinking that I may see a part of it. I certainly had.

Later in the day I cometed Sec1 of the TET. 474km done and 5 bigger sections to go. A lot of the day had now been roads but wow they were great. Twisting, turning with big hidden dips and sweeping bend. I swear there were some attempts to replicate race circuits. Eventually I turned up at Tivitsbadet Camping near Barrud. It was a mini Hawaii

It was a warm night, mostly due to the frequent squally showers that threatened to pull the tent from the ground. Late last night I was out putting all the guide ropes. However on waking the weather was great. I made porridge and coffee before finding a duck and ducklings that enjoyed the porridge oats.

Happy with my good deed I laid back in the tent and somehow fell asleep, waking to the heavy rain again. Only this time the tent door was open and everything I had unpacked was outside in the rain. The porch was like a swimming pool. I had to move everything into the nearby shelter and dry it as best I could before packing up.

By the time it was all packed away the rain had stopped and I risked setting off without waterproofs. It was fine, soon I was on the loose gravel tracks again, trying to control a wayward bike intent on slipping at every given moment. I could feel that I was heading uphill and the gravel became more like large stones. I needed to get this under control or I was going to end up in a ditch. Then out of the cloud, not only came the sun but wind turbines. They were so close but all had gates to stop people driving up close. I left the bike and ten minutes later I was as close as you can get to a wind turbine.

Back on the bike and headed away from them I found an open access gate…

Back down out of the mountains on gravel tracks and into Hjortsberga a small town and the road directed me through an industrial estate, there was no one about. As I rounded a corner two BMW1200GS bikes and riders with all the gear went past me in the opposite direction. We had just enough time to recognise each other and wave. These were the first TET riders I had seen in Sweden.

From this point on the trails we’re easy flowing fast tracks that required concentration but no real skill to master. This country is just continuous beautiful vistas. However it was getting late and I needed a campsite. Mapping found one close by. It looked ideal apart from a barrier across the entrance. I was joined by a couple in a camper van also looking for a place to stay. We were in turn joined by Lisbeth a lady out for her evening walk. She informed us the campsite was closed this season as new owners were being sought. However campers could just park in the reception park and I could loop round the barrier and camp wherever I wanted. She even came back 30 minutes later with 5 litres of water for me. So that was me for the day.

Except for the moment I thought I may die! I’ve had a cough for months and luckily I had a negative LFT before I travelled. At night it keeps me awake so I have some lozenges. I laid down lozenge in the side of my mouth, all good until a cough came and the inhale of breath sucked the lozenge straight down my wing pipe. A weird calm came over me. “Oh bugger, I can’t breath, this will be awkward I will have to get to the camper van 60m away before I pass out.” Still crazy calm I started to get out the sleeping bag. I didnt want to try and breath in just incase it lodged further down. There was no way I’d make it to the camper. At that point I clenched my stomach muscles and thrust them inwards. Luckily for me that was enough to bring the lozenge back up.

So today I crossed my 6th border into Sweden, Malmo to be precise and it was time to hit the TET. First though breaking camp and the tunnel/bridge to Sweden

I was up early, fed and watered. I packed away in the warm morning sun. Everything loaded I was keen to go. I pulled away and immediately the bike pulled violently to the right. I couldn’t stop it falling to the ground, watched by other camper, mostly motorsport fans I’m sure. Looking at the downed machine, there it was, the bright orange lock through the wheel, crash bars and front disc. I quickly adopted the recognised position to lift your very heavy bike, without bursting body parts you may need later. I quickly had the bike back up and on its stand. Suddenly that warm morning sun was rather hot.

Ok let’s get this unlocked and get out of here. Now wheres the key? Last time I recall seeing it was in the tent pocket! Tent off, unpacked on the grass with me ferreting around inside it looking for the key. Anyway it wasn’t in there it was in my rucksack all along. It now hangs on the ignition key.

Take 2. Out the camp through Copenhagen and Malmo is just 20km away. But wait that tunnel bridge combo is about that long, it must start after this little tunnel. Nope that was it and about as dull as it gets. A tunnel that comes up out of the sea half away across the ? Sea and then rises up an enormous 6km bridge. At the end you pay a toll to a machine and the head to immigration. There were about 8 booths all closed with green lights on. I was in Sweden. There was no visitor centre for the bridge it was just over. Anyway the TET starts almost immediately and I was excited by the challenge.

And so it started with nice winding country lanes and the odd wide track. All very easy, probably to lure me into a false sense of security. I’m using an old Android phone to navigate with ‘OSMand’ app, with gpx files overlaid to show the route. It worked really well on the Husqvarna with its 2 x 3amp USB outlets. What became apparent with the Honda was it only has 2.1 amps output and the phone was drawing more power than the bike could supply. Not an issue today but something that could cause problems if I don’t keep on top of the charging situation.

Vittsjò was the first campsite to pop up on my map after I diverted to buy some food and water. I booked in, set up, showered and went to make coffee only to find the water was sparkling. Luckily all tap water is really good quality in Sweden.

I planned a day off in Copenhagen as I don’t want to just do a journey. Up early, first in the showers and ready to go by 9am. I made my way to the bus stop and jumped on the 2A brandishing my payment card. “We don’t take cards”, I dug around in my pocket and produced some Danish coins, “That’s not enough” she said. I said I’d find a cash machine and get the next bus, but she took my 2.5 Danish Krone and handed me a 4 Danish Krone ticket. She advised I get a city day pass.

First stop Central Station. I love the age old architecture. I put into the map Tivoli Gardens. If Google maps could talk it would have yelled “You doofus, turn around”

So the equivalent of £39 got me into Tivoli Gardens and a wrist band for all the rides. Why wouldn’t you…..

I dont even like rides that go round and round. But the rollercoaster was good. The gardens were not that great to be honest but it was a lovely few hours of fun in the sun

Thrill seeking done I had paracetamol and water before a cross town walk to The Little Mermaid. It’s actually quite a long walk, so get a coffee, play elevator music and continue in an hour

Ok that’s it, really small, really close to the shore. So close that during her time looters have cut off her bronze head twice. The Little Mermaid is a Hans Christian Anderson tale (100% Danish name). But the statue was paid for by Carl Johanson who ‘fell in love’ with the story so much he had the statue made. How did he pay for it? Carl owned a brewery that some say produces the best lager in the world, probably.

Getting back would be a breeze with my new all day ticket. I needed to go 2 stops on the Metro. It was busy and I stood at the door. At the first station a lady walked behind me to exit and I felt a tug on my rucksack. A million to one freak occurrence. The tiniest lip on a zip on her bag, hooked onto the tiniest loop on my rucksack. We were stuck. She wanted off I wanted on. Good chap that I am we both got off. It took minutes to untangle the fiddly little buggers.

So I got back to camp and had made the decission to move on. I love racing cars but to stay meant 4 more days and 3 of those I wouldn’t be able to get the bike out of the campsite.

What can I tell you,I scoffed porridge and drank coffee on the camp site before packing up and heading off towards Copenhagen. It was another warm day and as it was a short journey I opted for non motorway. Being early it was fairly busy and I pottered along with all the commuters, knowing just how lucky I was not to be crossing London for another shift.

Soon enough I was guided onto the motorway and towards the Storebæltsbroen, a very impressive bridge with high winds to match its high road.

I made it to the campsite on the edge of the Capitol about 4pm after various stops to cool down and drink water, eat ice cream etc. Camp Beløj is a temporary camp set up every year and at first I thought it was in the middle of extensive road works but it’s actually in the middle of a closed street race circuit and this weekend is the Danish Classic Grand Prix. The campsite and especially my tent were in the paddock. So its Tuesday the 2nd and racing starts on Friday. I’m booked until Thursday afternoon. Quandary, do I buy a ticket and stay for the weekend?

Plenty of time to work that out. I scoffed a chicken salad, drinking yoghurt, raspberries and some sweets, whilst in the tent avoiding the flying ants that decided to swarm the camp. The porch of the tent has a separate ground sheet that has a lip all the way round. I needed to be careful not to puncture the floor or trip on the lip. My overall thinking was that if water did get in I’d have a swimming pool

Breakfast at the Novum Hotel was really good and set me up for the day. I packed up and headed off confident the day would improve from grey overcast, as I headed towards Hamburg.

As I rode along, mostly, motorway again I caught a glimpse of blue sky and within 100km it was all blue and warm. I stopped just short of Hamburg to see if I could find a tyre dealer. As luck would have it there was a tyre depot just 5km away. On arrival a very nice lady told me they had nothing but she knew a man who would.

This man, John Hagemann who has a bike tyre shop in Hamburg. John is a great guy who once raced the Welsh 6 day enduro as a team rider for Maico. He was so helpful and after a quick check in the store he came up with a pair of Pirelli Scorpion STR’s

Belly full I was back on the road fully aware that new tyres need a few heat cycles through them to bed in. I really wanted to make it to Denmark and so hit the motorway North and before I knew it I was slowing for border control, the first I’d seen since Dover.

I stopped at a shopping centre for a coffee and looked for camping. Quickly finding Skamling Camping. I pinged off an email to the former British Banker, owner Peter and was rewarded with a prompt “Yes”. An hour later I was there and pitching my tent

Peters wife, whose name escapes me, suggested riding down a small track to the pond area. She was right it was perfect. I think I’d eaten enough junk food to miss eating before bed. The stars were incredibly bright in the sky with next to no light pollution. It was also crazy cold. Sleeping bag, full thermals, snood, socks and wooly hat were required. All of which has left me a little worried about the Artic Circle and higher.

I knew it was going to be overcast with a few showers. I mean I packed the tent between showers and the Amsterdam swing was in the rain. However by the time I left the A’dam building it was pouring down. Full waterproofs and winter gloves required. I kept saying it will clear up but it didn’t and I found myself looking at the shades of dark sky and hoping my route would steer me towards the lighter coloured grey. My plan was to head north and ride the Afsluitdijk (pronounced Af-Slough-deck) a part of the huge dam holding back the Sea

With that box ticked I set sail for Bremen. There was no way I would make Hamburg in this rain, now accompanied by massive side winds. The journey got no better, it was more terrifying than any swing over the side of a building. Visibility was terrible and I nearly got taken out by a high speed black car. I was behind a lorry and indicated to pull out, checked the mirror, nothing, a quick shoulder check and this car just appeared out of the spray, no lights on and easilly doing 40mph more than me. I barely saw it as it went past and disappeared into the spray in front.

I found a cheap hotel right near Central Station in Bremen. The ride to it was interesting as Breman has an extensive tram network and all those trams share the road with traffic in certain areas. Of course tram lines and rain are a perfect mix for biking disaster but somehow I made it to the hotel. The Novem Hotel Bremer Haus looked to be in a run down area but it had secure parking in an underground car park. Once in my room I put all my wet gear in the bathroom, took the temperature limiter off the towel rail and wound it up to full. I put everything I could on charge and went out to get supper. Seven Eleven supplied pot noodle type thing, drinking yoghurt and water. On return I was informed all in breakfast would be at 7.

I will try and add more pictures but the tablet isn’t talking to the phone